XOSkeleton is one of the most innovative watch concepts I’ve ever encountered, so I thought it worthwhile to expound a bit for those collectors who might be interested. This brand is a beautiful fusion of science and the art of horology mixed with true design innovation. One of the traits I most admire about these timepieces is that they truly look like no other; they are truly original, which is a rare event in the world of watches.

XOSkeleton may be defined as an external supporting structure, like an arthropod, or invertebrate animals such as insects and crustaceans. XOSkeleton’s patent pending designs have an "O” ring on the outside of the watch case which provides protection, hence the name.

This young company brings with it years of experience in the watch industry. The XOSKELETON Collection makes its intentions clear – from its patent-pending designs, 904L stainless steel case & “O” ring, intricate movement complications, patented illumination technology and dynamic architectural frame. The new XOSKELETON Collection expresses a pure fascination with metal and materials wrapped around a timekeeping device, creating a genuine work of art. Each individual part is refined with a complete focus and attention to detail; impressive on display but breathtakingly beautiful on the wrist, both from visual and comfort vantage points.

XOSkeleton started with the anatomy of the wrist, and from a scientific approach researched how to best place a big watch on the top of the wrist, as the size alone can make it top heavy and hard to wear. Their engineers came up with an architectural structure that encases the top part of the wrist, creating a balance for a larger size watch. The finished design is more of a piece of handcrafted jewelry that keeps time, as opposed to being just a wristwatch (you can put it onto the watch crystal and spin it in a circle and it will show balance).

This timepiece will never be mistaken for any other brand. The main criteria for this wristwatch was design (design being the most important), metals and materials being second, with the movement & complications (or calibers) listed third, and fourth being the technology.

The Design

XOSkeleton’s patent-pending designs utilize a new feature referred to as an "O" ring. The "O" ring is on the outer perimeter of the watch case, with "Y" joints or connectors (or any shape that connects the "O" ring to the main body of the watch), that fit into grooves in the watch case in turn being secured with multiple screws. The joints or connections extend underneath the watch case and are screwed into the bottom of the case. The case back is then screwed into place. This wristwatch was engineered like an intricate puzzle, lots of metal parts and screws, that all come together to form an incredibly beautiful wristwatch. This is an aggressive timepiece concept with some designs have 12-13 piece cases with 35-50 screws.

The bracelet links use screws and never pins, and there is a custom designed jeweler’s screwdriver to remove links and adjust the bracelet included (Please do not use the screwdriver for anything other than removing a screw to adjust the links on the bracelet. It breaks the warranty if you take all the screws apart on the connectors or joints). Each bracelet is engineered to fit to the watch case. Each watch case is unique to a given design. Some bracelets have 12-15 pieces just for one link. Again, each design has a different watch case. They do look similar but if you took an "0" ring and tried to put it onto another design then it would not fit. Each "0" ring and each case is different. This of course took a lot of additional time and expense for each mold, as well as CNC production of each and every wristwatch.

Metals & Materials / What is 904L?

The watch case and "O" ring are made from solid 904L steel. The case back, bracelet, clasp and "connectors" ("Y", “W" or creatively shaped metal connectors), are made of 316L stainless-steel, thus assuring that there is no allergic reaction. The use of both 904L and 316L steels, which are different metals but have the same grade of hardness, creates an unparalleled breakthrough in wristwatch design.

The soul of the watch is the ergonomically-shaped watch case, made from a solid block of 904L stainless-steel. 904L steel cost estimates are three to four times that of 316L steel. To my knowledge at the time of this writing (01/2009) only one other watch company makes their watchcases from a solid block of 904L stainless steel; Rolex.

904L is a non-stabilized low carbon high alloy austenitic stainless-steel. The addition of copper to this grade gives it greatly improved resistance to strong reducing acids, particularly sulfuric acid. It is also highly resistant to chloride, pitting, crevice corrosion and stress corrosion cracking. 904L has a high nickel content which gives a much better resistance to stress corrosion cracking and is especially an advantage under extreme conditions. The austenitic structure also gives this grade excellent toughness, even down to cryogenic temperatures. The cost for one ton of 904L steel is approximately $40,000 (USD) compared to one ton of 316L steel at about $10,000 (USD). XOSkeleton produces its own 904L stainless steel from the foundry, pouring it into a crucible and processing it into solid blocks of 904L steel. The solid blocks are sent to a CNC (Computer Numerical Control), machine. The CNC machine is used to fabricate components by the precise removal of material. The watch case is then polished and hand finished to the highest standards

IP (Ion Plating) Ion plating, one of the most advanced surface finishing processes ever developed. In traditional processes, the gold coating on the surface of a watch case can be rubbed off easily. Ion plating makes the gold plating more durable, more wear resistant, and also has higher color brightness. On selected models the watch case or "O" ring or even some of the screws are bombarded with gold, atom by atom, accelerated by a magnetic field and carried out in a vacuum environment. Ion plating uses a titanium nitride layer, which has a high chemical stability, to the component to be plated, over which the gold (or other material) is added. At low pressure, one thousandth of mercurial pressure, solid metal vaporized and turns into electric ions when heated and bombarded by electrons, know also as plasma.

A great advantage of this process is that the titanium nitride produced is both harder and chemically more stable than that produced through traditional plating methods. Experiments have proven that the plating obtained through Ion plating is five to eight time better than that obtained through traditional methods in terms of wear and corrosion resistance. The term "permanent coating” can be appropriately applied in this instance.

Movements and complications in first generation

The movements are:

1. Barracuda & Superlative have a Ronda caliber 5130.D., which is a chronograph, alarm, date.

2. Intercontinental has a Ronda caliber 6203.B. Dual time, big date. This will allow you to tell the time in two time zones.

3. Night Warrior has a Ronda caliber 515.24H GMT. Greenwich Mean Time is a term originally referring to mean solar time at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich in London. There is a dedicated hand that reads in GMT, also thought of as military time, on the watch.

4. Ocean Warrior has a Ronda caliber 4120.B. Alarm, Big Date. This watch has an alarm and also has a double rotor big date for easier viewing.

First Generation Technology: LED & UV LED on Sapphire Crystal

For its first generation series XOSkeleton uses a slightly-domed sapphire watch crystal that has an AR coating on the surface. The underside of the watch crystal has a patented ITO (indium-tin-oxide), an invisible conductive metal so that there are not any visible wires leading from the two L.E.D's (Light emitting diodes), located on the undersurface of the sapphire crystal. (note the black “bulb” on the crystal). There is one visible LED that can be red, green, yellow, or orange, and there is also a UV-LED. When you press the bulb shaped button on the side of the case it will illuminate a visible color (depending on the model that you choose) for three seconds and then, consecutively for two seconds it will illuminate in UV. This patented technology allows you to see the time in the dark while facilitating beautiful color changes on the dial. The second UV-LED emits radiation that excites the phosphor on the seconds, minute and hour markers making them glow brightly in low light or in the dark. The illumination system uses a 2032 lithium battery.

*First Generation/Second Generation*

All of the technology you loved in the first generation (such as the use of 904L steel and the patented "O ring" design) as well as exclusivity (all releases continue to be numbered limited editions) are found in the second, but the design innovations definitely take the brand to a different level.

For example, the signature cradle design is now smaller and even cleverer in its design, so when combined with the handmade bracelets, fits even more wrist sizes and shapes. I've tried one and this new architecture fit my wrist like it was literally custom made, while others in attendance with different wrist sizes had the same experience when trying on the same watch. In one word: Brilliant.

This is also the first series to ever see examples finished in gold across its entire construction, and the gold surfacing is nothing short of stunning, as is their charcoal "gunmetal" finish being introduced within this generation.

The Intercontinental Voyager took on a square case design in second generation, which in my opinion is absolutely gorgeous. The stunning Superlative Star sees brilliant cut sapphires or rubies showcased via pressure setting in the space between the case and the patented O ring. But the pinnacle has got to be the unveiling of the first ever XO Tourbillon. This hand-built achievement is truly spectacular. The fact that it is available for less than 30k tells you that the tourbillon is not pure Swiss, but the real beauty is that there is a Swiss connection. The Asian ebauche was taken to a lab used by Swiss watch brands where each was inspected and disassembled by a Swiss trained tourbillon tech, and every part either brought up to exacting specs or replaced with a custom made part! I know of no other brand that has ever taken such measures with an Asian base movement.

*Packaging*

The packaging is very much the same in both generations, and is designed literally travel. The shape of the case is ergonomically engineered to fit in the hand, with an interior of harder dark-grey padding custom fitted for your XOSkeleton watch. Just put the watch inside, zip it up and throw it into your carry-on bag.

*Warranty*

Each watch has a one (1) year warranty.

*Water Resistance *

XOSkeletons are water-resistant to 10 atm/100 meters (330 feet). In event of salt water they recommend that you rinse it with fresh water. It wasn't easy to make this watch water resistant. Due to its unique shape everything had to be custom made, including the rubber gasket, and the screws that hold the case back. I do caution against pushing the illumination button (first generation) or pulling out the crown or pushers under water. Doing so could allow moisture to penetrate, and humidity inside the case is of course not a good thing.

*Clasp and closure*

XOSkeleton started with a custom-made deployant closure, and added an additional security closure clasp that locks down on top of the deployant closure. The deployant is thicker and more mechanical than most, due to the bracelets being wider than the average, necessitating special tooling to get the custom look and feel. The physical detailing on this clasp is magnificent.

*Size and Weight*

XOSkeletons have a diameter of about 49mm to 51 mm, including the protective “O” ring and it goes completely around the watch case. The finished examples (first generation) weigh in at an impressive 225-265 grams. What to me is equally impressive is that the scientific approach to the design spreads it out so evenly that you don't get that top-heavy feel.

*Limited Edition*

XOSkeletons are limited-editions of only 400 pieces per watch style in first generation, and 888 in the second generation, with each example being individually numbered. Only 100 was produced per configuration of their tourbillon (second generation).

*Suggested Retail/Pricing*

Suggested retail has a range of $1,295.00 USD to $2795.00 USD.