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Tim Temple Watches "Click Above To Enter" Watch Movements What is a Movement: The movement is the "engine" of the watch. It is the device, be it mechanical or electronic, that converts the energy from the power source into the measured increments, which allow the recording of the passage of time. For the purposes of a basic discussion, there are three movement types in the current market: quartz, mechanical, and automatic. As an overview, consumers or collectors desiring the artistry of watch making should consider owning a mechanical or automatic. Those who want the most accurate and/or the most maintenance-free experience will likely be happier with a quartz movement. What is a Quartz Movement: Quartz is a modern innovation that can be traced back to the 1930s, though it didn't reach wristwatches en mass until the 1970s. It's named for the very thin piece of synthetic quartz that is part of the movement. The crystal vibrates over 32,000 times a second in response to an electric charge. An integrated circuit tracks the vibrations and translates them into timekeeping increments to be recorded via the watch dial, be it a digital readout or the more traditional hands, known as analog. Quartz is the most accurate watch movement you can own, as well as the most maintenance free. It requires no winding, as its power source is an electronic cell--usually a battery. Because it can be produced very inexpensively through modern mass production techniques, it is the movement type found in most inexpensive watches, though more complex and even handcrafted versions of this movement type may be found in high-end timepieces. What is a Mechanical Movement: A mechanical movement is the original invention, enjoying hundreds of years of history. It is a literal machine that, through a series of cogs and gears, translates the power stored in the mainspring (never a battery) into the measured increments necessary to tell time and power any complication that may be included. While quite reasonably accurate, a handcrafted engine such as this will never equal the accuracy of a quartz engine, despite the fact that a quartz movement may often be available at a lower price. Fans of mechanical movements appreciate them for the artistry and skill it takes to create such an amazing machine by hand. You will always need to wind this watch manually, and usually daily, though there are some expensive and extreme examples with longer power storage. What is an Automatic Movement: An automatic movement is identical in every way to a manual movement--with one important exception. A counterweight, known as a rotor, has been added and is connected to the mainspring via a transmission. The rotor, reacting to the movement of the wrist as the watch is worn, spins on an axis, thus adding tension to the mainspring on an ongoing basis.
The name "automatic" results from the theory that if the watch was worn every day, the resulting rotation of the rotor would "automatically" maintain tension in the mainspring, thus eliminating the need to wind the watch. While there is truth to that, it should be noted that if you set an automatic watch down for a day or two, it will run out of power and have to be wound just like a mechanical movement.
What is a Complication: In plain language, a complication is any "trick" a watch can do, beyond its basic task of telling time in a single time zone. As an example, being able to tell the date of the month is a commonly found complication. Other examples include giving the day of the week, the year, having a chronograph capability, or giving the phase of the moon. And these examples only scratch the surface; part of the allure of watches in my view is the discovery and ongoing pursuit and creation of new and inventive complications.
Complications will very likely increase the cost of a watch, though by no means are all complications created equal. Some (such as a date window) add minimal cost, while those more difficult to engineer, such as a chronograph, can add significant cost. Exotic complications can add staggering sums to the price of a watch.
What is a Chronograph: A watch is referred to as a chronograph when it has the ability to act as a stopwatch while at the same time maintaining the time of day. There are usually two buttons or "pushers" on the side of the case. One starts and stops the stopwatch timing capability, while the other is used to reset the chronograph to the "zero" position. The elapsing time is usually recorded on a series of small dials, called subdials, displayed within the main dial of the watch, with one dial showing the elapsed seconds, another minutes, and so on. At times, digital quartz chronographs may show the results in a series of electronic windows instead of on subdials. Some chronographs will also record passing hours, while some extreme examples record days.
What is the difference between Various Movement Origins: In the current market, movements usually bear one of four country-of-origin labels: Swiss, Japanese, Russian, and Chinese (also referred to as "Asian"). There is variance from one to the next, and here is a basic overview of each.
Swiss movements are considered the engines with the most cache, and indeed many of the world's finest movements do originate in Switzerland. It is worth noting that Swiss production can range from low end to high end, including both mechanical and quartz movements. The largest producer by far--and the most famous--is a manufacturer called Swiss ETA Valjoux, a subsidiary of the Swatch group. Other substantial producers include Sellita, Ronda, and ISA. There are also small custom houses that usually work on very exclusive high-end movements.
Swiss productions consistently cost the most, grade for grade, but they also deliver consistent quality. It's worth noting that German production is considered on par with Swiss production, albeit not nearly as prolific.
Japanese movements are definitely of consistent quality and are often available for less than their Swiss counterparts, though without the high-end association. They consistently deliver accuracy and durability. There are two major current sources in Japan: Seiko and Citizen Miyota. Both houses are most famous for their achievements in quartz production, but both produce some very solid mechanical automatic movements as well. They are an excellent choice for anyone looking for quality without the premium that a Swiss movement might fetch.
Russian movements are a wonderful niche and a favorite with many collectors due to both their quality and the mystique of their association with the former Soviet Union. Russia has been producing watches for many decades, but until the end of the Cold War, their distribution had been limited, to say the least. Very few quartz examples herald from Russia, but it is an excellent source for well-constructed, handmade mechanical and automatic movements that can be had at prices well below Swiss or German production.
Chinese movements have been around for a while, but they have really stepped onto the world stage within the last 10 years. Chinese movements are best known for taking what have historically been expensive, most notably complicated Swiss and German mechanical concepts, and producing something similar for a fraction of the price. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the quality of their production was questionable, but collectors gravitated to them, because for many, the complications formerly priced out of reach were now obtainable. In more recent years, dramatic strides have been made in quality, with some facilities moving to "clean rooms" and even importing Swiss and German machinery to aid in production. Today's output can be a great product for dollars spent; however, quality can vary dramatically from factory to factory, so it is wise to go with a trusted source when acquiring within this category.
What are "Jewels" in a Movement: Sooner or later the consumer or collector will encounter a watch extolling the number of jewels in its movement. Amidst the genesis of watch making, it was realized that the friction generated in the moving parts of a watch movement can greatly affect both longevity and accuracy. A material that was both very hard and capable of being polished was needed at the friction points to address this issue. Ultimately rubies, having both of these qualities, were selected for the job and installed at major friction points after being hand-shaped on a diamond lathe. The costs of both sourcing these natural stones and the skilled labor needed to shape and install them drove up the asking price of a jeweled movement. Today, lab-grown sapphires are used and installed using much more cost-efficient techniques.
There is extensive discourse as to the number of jewels adding value and/or indicating a superior product, especially at the connoisseur level of watch collecting. For the purposes of basic discussion, a jeweled movement is certainly desirable, but the stated number of jewels alone does not necessarily indicate a better production. In some cases, jewels are added to noncritical or even decorative positions, just to increase their number, likely to satisfy marketing strategy.
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