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Tim Temple Watches "Click Above To Enter" What is a Watch Case The case is the main body of a wristwatch. It is the enclosure for the movement and dial, and gives a wristwatch its overall size and shape. Shapes include, but are not limited to, round (by far the most common), square, rectangular (sometimes referred to as "tank"), and "tonneau," which refers to a shape similar to a rectangle but with the longer sides bowed outwards resembling a barrel. The name "tonneau" was taken from the French world for barrel. What are cases made of: If you can think of a workable material, odds are someone has at least attempted to make a watch case out of it. Here are some of the most common Base Metal: This is a catchall term for a lot of mystery metals and the like, and it's something you will likely only encounter if you are looking at inexpensive watches under around $100 dollars at full retail. The most common material showing up in this category is likely brass; it's used because it is much less expensive than steel, but the trade off is that it is softer and some people have an allergic reaction to it. This category gives the ability to offer watches in a variety of shapes and sizes but doesn't offer near the quality, durability, and longevity of a steel case. Of course, the price should reflect this. I wouldn't recommend spending much money at all for a watch made with materials falling within this category. If you are considering a watch in this range, it would be wise to insist that the back of your watch be made of 316L steel, even if the rest of the case isn't, due to potential allergic reactions to base metal cases. 316L Steel: Please notice that I am emphasizing "316L" and not just steel. The label "316L" indicates that the steel used is hypoallergenic due to the removal of nickel, the ingredient that gives some people an allergic reaction to other steels or materials. In simplest terms, 316L is the same type of steel used in surgical instruments. It is a very strong and durable material, with the added advantage of also being hypoallergenic. You will find this material used on watches from about $100 up to tens of thousands of dollars. This material can be finished beautifully and in a variety of ways, handles engraving well (gold- or platinum-layered pieces being the exception), handles gemstone setting well (subject to the quality of the work, of course), and should last for a very long time, even across generations. Noble Metals
"Noble metals" is a grandiose term for precious metals used in the construction of watches and jewelry, and includes sterling silver, 14kt gold (the North American standard for gold jewelry), 18kt gold (the European standard), platinum, and the occasional exotic material or alloy. In addition to the prestige factor, you will find that these materials are by and large hypoallergenic, though that can vary depending on an alloy's mix. Consider these materials to be less durable than steel (gold and silver especially) and, therefore, more prone to scratches and wear. Greater care should be taken in both the wearing and storing of such a watch. A word or two about layering: The layering of noble metals over less expensive materials has been around for a long time. Obviously the goal is to give the consumer the look of precious metal at a fraction of the price. Here again, quality versus price should speak volumes. The marketplace will give you examples of gold over base metals, gold over silver, gold (or platinum) over steel, and so on.
Of course the more you are willing to spend, the more you should expect in return. Layered noble metals are measured in millimeters, or mils. The more mils (layers) involved, the greater the cost and, in theory, the better the quality and durability. It is prudent to keep in mind that all layering can wear off and that layering can also vary dramatically in color, but not just in the difference between yellow, rose, or white gold. The accuracy of reproducing the look of solid gold will also vary, so judge accordingly.
The most common thickness of layers is one to three mils, over base metal usually or sometimes steel, and aimed at a low-price-point customer. I wouldn't count on this production lasting very long, and of course the price should reflect that.
In the five- to ten-mils layer ranges, you are getting into better quality production. This layering will most likely be over 316L steel and should be designed for increased wearability. You will likely find this degree of layering in watches ranging from the low hundreds to several thousand dollars, depending on the brand.
In less common instances you will find unusually heavy layering, as much as 20 mils. This is exceptional work and, in my experience, is found only on higher-end, hand-finished watches.
Layered products are not good candidates for custom engraving, as doing so will likely expose the underlying material.
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